The Ultimate Summer Travel Guide to Prague

The Vltava is the city's summer pulse. When the stone streets start to bake, everyone heads for the water. Rent a pedal boat. Locals call them šlapadla. You'll find them around Slovanský Island. It’s the best way to see the National Theatre or Prague Castle without the crowds. You can even float under the arches of Charles Bridge. Back on land, hit the Náplavka embankment. Architects turned the old storage holes in the river wall into bars and galleries. They call them Kobky. These spots have huge circular glass doors. Further down, check out Čapadlo. It's a pop-up spot for acoustic sets. The river keeps the air cool while you grab a drink. It's the perfect place to watch the city slow down as the sun hits the water.

Surviving a Prague heatwave takes a plan. Use the architecture. Head under the Old Town Hall. Those 12th-century foundations stay cold even in August. For getting around, hunt for the new Škoda 15T trams. They’re the ones with climate control. Don't waste money on bottled water. Prague’s tap water is some of the best in Europe. It comes from places like the Podolí Waterworks. You’ll find public drinking fountains everywhere. They're called pítko. If you need a snack, find Crème de la Crème on Husova street. Try the sea buckthorn flavor. Or go old school with a Míša popsicle. It’s a mix of curd cheese and chocolate. It hasn't changed much since 1962. It works. It's the taste of a Czech summer.

Know the rules before you hit the big sites. Prague Castle is huge. You’ll want the Main Circuit ticket. That gets you into St. Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace, and Golden Lane. St. Vitus is easy to enter, but the Great South Tower is a workout. There are 287 steps. It's brutal in the heat. At the Old Town Hall, you'll pay extra for the elevator to the top. The transit system is your lifeline. The metro moves 600 million people a year. Most stations have barrier-free access. The tram fleet is changing too. You might see the old high-floor cars, but wait for the low-floor versions. They make getting from Hradčany to the airport much easier for anyone with a suitcase or a stroller.

Summer means beer gardens and festivals. Letná Park is the big one. It sits on a plateau over the Vltava. You sit at long wooden tables under chestnut trees. The views are the best in the city. Everyone drinks there. It's simple and loud. Or try Riegrovy sady in Vinohrady if you want to watch sports on big screens. For a sunset, go to the Vyšehrad fortress ruins. Then there are the festivals. Metronome Prague brings the rock and pop to Výstaviště. But don't miss Letní Letná. It’s a huge contemporary circus festival in Letná Park. Tents stay up for three weeks. Between that, Prague Pride, and the Prague Spring music festival, there's always something happening. You won't run out of things to see.