Staré Město

This is where the city started. Staré Město kept its original medieval layout. You won't find wide modern boulevards here. Instead, you'll get lost in a tangle of cobblestone lanes and hidden courtyards. Everything centers on Old Town Square. It’s been a market since the 11th century. Expect energy. You'll see horse carriages and street performers. Massive tour groups fill the square. But don't let that scare you off. Duck two streets away from the Royal Route. The noise vanishes. You'll find quiet chapels and locals heading home. It's a mix of old beer halls and high-end design shops. It's the ultimate base for your trip. Everything is right there.

The main center of everything is Old Town Square. It’s the massive plaza where everyone gathers. Watch the Astronomical Clock at the top of the hour. It’s the oldest one still working. You'll see the 12 Apostles march past. Look up at the Church of Our Lady before Týn. Those twin dark towers define the skyline. Then head to the Klementinum. It’s a huge complex with a Baroque library that looks like a painting. Climb the Astronomical Tower for a view of the red-tiled roofs. To the west, you'll hit the Charles Bridge. It’s a 14th-century stone span lined with 30 saints. Look across the Vltava. You’ll see the castle glowing on the hill. Walk north to hit Josefov, the old Jewish Quarter. You will find the historic cemetery and synagogues there.

You can eat cheap at a pub or blow your budget at a bistro. Go to Lokál Dlouhááá on Dlouhá street. It’s loud and honest. They serve unpasteurized Pilsner straight from the tanks. A glass costs 62 CZK. Grab the roast beef with bread dumplings for 179 CZK. Or try the sausages for 135 CZK. Meat lovers should find Kantýna. It’s a butcher shop where you eat at standing tables. A premium burger is 10 USD. The pastrami sandwich is also 10 USD. Try the beef broth with liver dumplings for under 4 USD. For a sit-down meal, pick U Červeného Páva near the Estates Theatre. The goulash is rich and the dumplings are light. Want a view? Try Restaurant Mlýnec by the bridge. They do a great veal tartare. If the crowds get too much, duck into Coffee Room Celetná. It's a tiny spot for specialty coffee hidden in an arcade.

Hotels here are the priciest in Prague. Summer and Christmas are especially expensive. You're paying for the location. Grand Hotel Bohemia starts around 147 USD. Hotel Leon D'Oro is a solid choice from 126 USD. If you want a boutique feel on a budget, Dolce Vita Suites can go as low as 80 USD. For history, try Hotel Rott. It’s right by the clock in a Neo-Renaissance building. BoHo Prague Hotel is better if you like sleek, modern design and a quiet spa. If you want to go all out, book the Four Seasons. It sits right on the river bank. It combines a Baroque mansion and a palace. There is also a modern wing. The view of Prague Castle is better than anything else in the city.

Forget about cars. Most of the core is pedestrian-only. Walking is your best bet. Those narrow alleys weren't built for traffic. From the airport, take the metro. Use the Green Line (Line A) to Staroměstská. You'll be at the clock in five minutes. Or use Můstek where the Green and Yellow lines meet. It’s right on the edge of Wenceslas Square. Trams run along the river and at Náměstí Republiky. But you'll rarely need them. You can walk across the whole district in 20 minutes. It might take longer if the crowds are thick. You will probably get turned around in the alleys at least once.

You'll find luxury on Pařížská Avenue and junk in the tourist traps. Skip the cheap glass shops. Go to Granát Turnov at Dlouhá 28 for Bohemian garnet. It’s a co-op. You get real gold and silver. Every piece comes with a certificate. For design, visit Kubista in the House at the Black Madonna. They sell replicas of 1930s Czech Cubist ceramics. It’s sharp and unique. Vintage fans should squeeze into Bric a Brac on Týnská. It’s full of old typewriters and communist badges. For gifts, try Manufaktura on Celetná. They make bath salts and soap from Czech beer. If you want an outdoor market, go to Havelská. It’s the oldest one in the city. You'll find wooden toys and fresh fruit.

Violent crime isn't an issue here. Pickpockets are. They love the crowd at the Astronomical Clock. They also work the Charles Bridge. Keep your bag zipped and in front of you. Don't get distracted. Watch the rules. Jaywalking is a real offense here. Police will fine you for crossing on red even if the street is empty. When the bill comes, don't leave money on the table. Tell the waiter the total with the 5% to 10% tip included. Or hand them the cash directly. And wear flat shoes. The cobblestones are brutal. High heels are a mistake. You'll twist an ankle within a block. Sturdy shoes are the only way to go.