Malá Strana

Locals call it the Lesser Town. It is easily the most photogenic spot in the city. You are squeezed between the river and the castle. After the big fire in the 1500s, the elites moved in. They left behind massive palaces and churches that haven't changed much. Today, you'll see embassies tucked into these old mansions. Most tourists stick to the main path from the bridge. Do not do that. Duck into the side alleys and gardens instead. While the Old Town stays loud, Malá Strana shuts down after dark. It is peaceful. Walk the streets at midnight. You will have the place to yourself.

Look up for the green dome of St. Nicholas Church. Mozart played the organ here once. It is a Baroque giant in the middle of Lesser Town Square. Nearby, find the John Lennon Wall. It’s covered in layers of paint and slogans. Cross the narrow Devil's Canal to Kampa Island. You cannot miss the giant bronze babies by David Černý in the park. Visit Museum Kampa for modern art. The Wallenstein Garden is another essential stop. Expect to see peacocks and manicured hedges next to the palace. Then there is Petřín Hill. It is a massive park with great views. Take the funicular to the top. There is a mirror maze and a small version of the Eiffel Tower. Stop by the Kafka Museum on the riverbank to see the author's original letters.

Eating here ranges from cheap beer halls to Michelin views. Go to Pork's on Mostecká Street for a real meal. Their roasted pork knuckle costs 479 CZK. If you are in a hurry, grab the pulled pork roll for 299 CZK. Ribs are 379 CZK. A beer is 75 CZK. For a historic dive, try U Glaubicu. It sits right on Malostranské náměstí. They serve cheap Pilsner Urquell in a 700-year-old vault. If you have the budget, book Terasa U Zlaté Studně. The Angus steak is 1750 CZK. Their sparkling wine breakfast is 1190 CZK. The view is unbeatable. For coffee, hit Café Savoy. It is a grand, old-school space. Order the větrník pastry. It is a choux pastry with caramel cream. Get gelato at Angelato near the Újezd tram stop.

Stay here for quiet nights in old buildings. The Alchymist Grand Hotel is the top choice for luxury. It has frescoes and four-poster beds. Rates start at $245. For something cheaper, try Hotel Malá Strana near Petřín. Rooms start at 1,200 CZK. Dum u Velké Boty is a family-run spot. It has stone walls and starts at $116. If you want a chain, there is the Ibis Praha Mala Strana near the Smichov mall. It costs $50 to $77. Breakfast is 300 CZK and parking is 650 CZK. They take pets for 350 CZK. For an apartment, check Three Golden Crown. It is right next to St. Nicholas Church.

Walk. Malá Strana is tiny. But the streets are steep and the stones are uneven. Wear flat shoes. You can reach the Old Town by crossing Charles Bridge on foot. For longer trips, use Malostranská metro station on the Green Line. Trams are better. Tram 22 is your best friend. It stops at Újezd and Malostranské náměstí before going up to the castle. Trams run from 5:00 AM to 1:00 AM. Night trams like the 97 cover the rest. Buy tickets at machines or newsstands. A 30-minute ride is 30 CZK. A 90-minute ride is 40 CZK. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machine immediately. Inspectors are everywhere.

You will not find malls here. Go south to Anděl for those. Malá Strana is about small shops. Mostecká and Nerudova are the main streets. Mostecká has glass, toys, and art. Nerudova is the steep climb to the castle. Look at the houses while you shop. Before numbers existed, people used signs. Find the Golden Lion or the Two Suns. The Golden Cup is another famous one. Most shops on the main drag are for tourists. They can be expensive. Wander into the alleys near Kampa for local goods instead.

Prague is safe. Malá Strana is even safer. You can walk home at 2 AM without worry. Watch your pockets on Tram 22 though. It is the favorite route for pickpockets. Keep your bag zipped. The same applies to Charles Bridge. Do not wear heels. The stones will ruin them. Tip 10% at restaurants. Or just round up the bill. Always validate your tram ticket. Plainclothes inspectors love checking tourists. Fines are steep.