Lobkowiczký palác

Jaroslav of Pernštejn built the place in the mid-16th century. Soon after, the House of Lobkowicz took over through marriage. They've looked after it for centuries. But the 20th century was brutal. The Nazis stole the palace and the art in 1939. The family got it back briefly after the war, but the Communists seized it again in 1948. After 40 years of exile, the family returned during the Velvet Revolution. It took 12 years of legal battles, but they finally won it back in 2002. They opened the museum five years later.

The collection here holds over 20,000 objects. It's one of Europe's oldest private troves. You'll move through galleries that track European art history. The big draw is Pieter Bruegel the Elder’s Haymaking from 1565. It shows peasant life in incredible detail. Use the touchscreens to see what's hidden under the paint. It's a rare chance to see how a master worked.

The family had huge diplomatic reach. That's why you'll see so much Spanish and Italian art here. They own the third-biggest set of Spanish Renaissance portraits outside Madrid. Don't miss Diego Velázquez's painting of Infanta Doña Margarita Teresa. You'll also see Canaletto’s view of the River Thames. He sold it to them while running from the War of the Austrian Succession.

Check out the weird stuff too. Look for the Meissen Flying Dog porcelain. It's from the very start of European porcelain making. There's a 17th-century altarpiece made of ebony and garnets. Look for the nautilus shells and the Renaissance armor. The family calls these 'Art in 60 Seconds' bits. They show you how the Bohemian elite actually lived.

Music fans need to see this archive. It has 5,000 items collected over 300 years. The Lobkowicz family didn't just listen to music. They played it and paid the bills for geniuses. You'll see old lutes, stringed instruments, and rare scores. It's a direct link to the giants of Western music.

The Beethoven connection is the highlight. Franz Joseph Maximilian, the 7th Prince, paid Beethoven a yearly salary. He gave him space to rehearse too. That's why Symphony No. 3, the 'Eroica,' premiered in this palace in 1804. Look for the 1806 first edition. Beethoven originally meant it for Napoleon. But he changed his mind and dedicated it to the Prince instead.

You'll find Mozart and Haydn here too. See the score for Handel’s Messiah. Mozart personally wrote notes on it for a 1789 show. Only two of these exist. You can also see the first edition of Haydn’s The Creation. The 7th Prince didn't just pay for it. He sang the part of Raphael on stage.

The best part of the museum is the story of how the family got it all back. 700 years of history stopped in 1939 when the Nazis arrived. They took everything. The family returned after the war, but the 1948 Communist coup ended that. They lost their home and fled. For 50 years, the state used their palace for offices.

The 1989 Velvet Revolution changed the game. The family came home in 1991. President Václav Havel signed laws that let people fight for their stolen property. It was a massive 25-year job. They had to track down 65,000 books and 30,000 boxes of archives.

They finally won the palace back in 2002. Then they spent four years fixing it with their own money. The museum opened in 2007. The family sees themselves as caretakers now. They don't want to hide the art. They want to share it with you and keep the past alive.

The building itself shows you how the high nobility lived. It started in the 1500s. But the 17th-century Baroque styles define it now. Look at the walls in the Imperial Hall. The paintings use a trick to look like 3D Roman statues. Find the St. Wenceslas Chapel too. It has medallions telling the story of the Czech patron saint.

The Baroque Concert Hall is the best room. It has huge frescoes on the ceiling with mythological scenes. You can actually hear music here. Local pros play works by Vivaldi and Mozart every day. Only 100 people can sit in. It's quiet and intimate. You'll hear the music just like a prince would have in the 1700s.

Finish at Café Lobkowicz. It sits high above the city. The terrace has one of the best views in Prague. You get a clear, 180-degree look at the river and the old town. Grab the 'Panorama Tour' audio guide. Eat a Czech pastry and let the guide point out the landmarks you can see from your chair.