Michaelerplatz

Michaelerplatz sits directly on top of the Roman legionary camp of Vindobona from the 1st century AD. It was a major crossroads for ancient soldiers and traders. By the 13th century, St. Michael's Church gave the square its name. The grand layout you see today started in the 1720s with plans by Joseph Emanuel Fischer von Erlach, but the palace's Michaelertrakt wing wasn't actually finished until 1893. In 1910, the plaza became a battlefield for architects when the Looshaus was built. Its plain walls offended Emperor Franz Joseph I so much he reportedly wouldn't look out his windows. The square's Roman roots were dug up and put on permanent display in 1991, revealing 2nd-century house foundations right in the middle of the pavement.

Michaelerplatz is an open-air lesson in how Vienna’s style has changed over the centuries. The Michaelertrakt is the heavy hitter here. It serves as the main entrance to the Hofburg Palace. Though designed in the 1720s, it wasn't finished until the 1890s. Its green copper dome and statues of Hercules were built to show off the raw power of the Habsburgs. It is pure imperial ego. Walk through those gates and you're in the heart of the monarchy. But look across the square to the Looshaus for the opposite vibe. Built in 1911, it stripped away every bit of the fluff that 19th-century Vienna loved. With its smooth plaster and green marble columns, it was a middle finger to the establishment. Then there is St. Michael's Church. It dates to the 13th century and remains one of the few Romanesque spots in town. Its quiet interior and tall octagonal tower offer a needed break from the massive palace next door. These three buildings create a timeline of the city in a single glance.

The streets branching off Michaelerplatz lead straight into the high-end history of the first district. Head north onto Kohlmarkt. This used to be a charcoal market, but now it is the most expensive strip of real estate in Vienna. You will find global luxury brands and historic jewelers behind every door. This is also where you'll find Demel at Kohlmarkt 14. Stop there for the same candied violets that Empress Sisi used to eat. To the east, Reitschulgasse leads toward the Spanish Riding School. If you're lucky, you'll see the white Lipizzaner stallions crossing the street between their stables and the arena. Walking through the Michaelertor archway takes you into the inner courtyards of the Hofburg, eventually hitting Heldenplatz. This route follows the path of emperors and connects the square to the city's biggest museums and the Ringstrasse. It is the best place to start a walk if you want to understand how the old imperial city was stitched together.

If you want the best shot of the Hofburg dome, stand near the entrance to Kohlmarkt. Use a wide-angle lens to get the palace wings and the statues in one frame. Morning is best for clean light and fewer people, but twilight is when michaelerplatz vienna truly shines. Once the sun drops, the palace lights turn gold against a dark blue sky. Use a slightly longer exposure to turn the passing fiaker carriages into a romantic blur. Don't forget the ground. The Roman excavations in the center of the square make for great high-contrast shots, especially in black and white. For a bit of architectural drama, frame the marble base of the Looshaus against the ornate archways across the street. It perfectly captures the clash of styles that makes this spot famous. There isn't a bad angle here if you look for the details.