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You won't find medieval spires or kitschy glass shops here. Holešovice is raw. It's what happens when you take 19th-century slaughterhouses and turn them into high-end art hubs. The district sits in a sharp curve of the Vltava River north of the Old Town. To your west, the grass of Letná Park stretches out. To the north, you've got the woods of Stromovka. It’s a neighborhood of two halves. You'll find grit and trams in the lower streets. Up near Letná, it's all independent bistros and some of the best coffee in Prague. Go if you like industrial bones and third-wave espresso. Skip it if you want the Disney version of the Czech capital. It's the real deal.