Praha hlavní nádraží

Trains first pulled out of here in 1871. Back then, it was Franz Josef Station, named for the Emperor. Josef Fanta rebuilt the whole thing in grand Art Nouveau style between 1901 and 1909. It changed names to Wilson Station after WWI to thank the US President. It held that name until 1938 and again after the war. Then the 1970s happened. Workers dug out the underground terminal for the new Metro Line C. They slapped a highway right over the old building’s front door, cutting it off from the park. It’s been a protected monument since 1976.

This station is a clash of eras. Most people start in the 1970s basement. It's all concrete geometries plus exposed structural elements, built to connect the new Metro Line C. They even ran a highway over the roof. But skip the neon and go to Level 0. You'll find the Fanta Building. It's the biggest Art Nouveau site in the country. Josef Fanta finished it in 1909 to make rail travel feel important. Look up at the glass dome and the gold-topped roof. They recently restored the 24-karat gold wheel on top. Sit in Fantova Kavárna. It’s the best way to feel the 1900s without leaving the station. This part of the building was ignored for decades while cars roared past outside. Now it's back to its original state. You can walk through the grand halls and see the same stained glass that travelers saw a century ago.

You need to know the layers. Level -2 is where you buy tickets for ČD and private lines like RegioJet. There’s a big Billa supermarket there if you need snacks for the ride. Level -1 is for shops and pharmacies, along with the station's public restrooms. From here, you’ll find three broad pedestrian underpasses: North (Sever), Center, or South (Jih). The central one is where everyone waits for platform announcements. But the north underpass is the one you want if you need an elevator for your bags. If you have a first-class ticket, go to the ČD Lounge on Level -2. It’s got a moss wall and free drinks. RegioJet has its own spot on Level -1. Don't bother with the old lockers on Level -2. Check apps like LuggageHero or Bounce instead. They use nearby shops and usually charge less while offering better insurance.

This place is more than a transit hub. It’s the spot where 669 Jewish children escaped the Nazis in 1939. Sir Nicholas Winton, a British broker, organized the trains. Nobody knew what he did until his wife found his old scrapbooks in the 80s. Walk to the south end of Platform 1. You'll see the bronze statue of Winton with two kids and a suitcase. It's a heavy spot. Over 15,000 other kids didn't make it out. And don't miss the 'Farewell Memorial' in the middle underpass. It’s a glass train door with handprints from survivors. It shows the moment kids said their last goodbyes through the windows. It was installed in 2017 to honor the parents who sent their children away to save them.

You can get anywhere from here. The Airport Express (AE) bus leaves from outside the old Fanta Building. It costs 200 CZK now. Don't try using a normal tram ticket. For the city, just jump on Metro Line C. Download the PID Lítačka app. A 90-minute ride is 46 CZK on the app but 50 CZK if you buy paper. It’s a no-brainer. But watch out for the park outside. Locals call it Sherwood because of the crime. It’s better now but still sketchy at night. Walk down Jeruzalémská Street instead. You’ll see the striking Jerusalem Synagogue and miss the trouble in the park. New rules also mean no electric bikes in the metro. And they've hiked up the fines for fare dodging.