Žižkov

Žižkov used to be a separate city. It didn't join Prague until 1922. The residents were laborers and artists. You'll also find bohemian outcasts. They still call it the Free Republic of Žižkov. You'll see young pros moving in now. New cafes are opening. But the neighborhood still feels raw. There are over 300 pubs packed into these narrow streets. That's a European record. You can grab a beer in a smoky room next to a vegan bistro. Architecture is different here. You won't find Baroque palaces. Instead, you get 19th-century tenements built on steep slopes. Be ready to climb stairs. You'll see how real Prague residents live.

Look up and you'll see the Žižkov Television Tower. It's 216 meters tall. Ten giant faceless babies crawl up the sides. David Černý designed them. They weigh 350 kilos each. Go to the 93-meter deck for 360-degree views. The Old Jewish Cemetery at Žižkov sits at the base. It dates to 1680. It's free to enter. Walk north to Vítkov Hill. You'll see the massive National Memorial. A nine-meter bronze horse stands in front. That's Jan Žižka. It's one of the biggest equestrian statues on earth. Use the paths for walking or inline skating. Check out the Army Museum. It's free and covers four floors. Visit the Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord. It has the largest clock face in the country. For a Cold War fix, find the Bezovka bunker under Parukářka Park. It can hold 2,500 people.

Beer is king here. Go to U Slovanské lípy. It's the oldest pub in the neighborhood. They have nine microbrews on tap. Get the beef burger for 195 CZK. Or the fried cheese for 175 CZK. If you want a real dive, try U Vystřelenýho oka. It's right by the old tracks. Drink craft beer at U Kurelů. It's smoke-free. For a splurge, head 66 meters up the TV tower to Oblaca. Foie gras costs 435 CZK. Pasta is 525 CZK. Cocktails start at 195 CZK. Bistro 66 is cheaper. Breakfast is 135 CZK and lunch is 225 CZK. Miminoo Garden at the base serves Italian mains from 225 CZK. You can play minigolf there too. Grab coffee at Žižkavárna or My Coffee Story. Mamacoffee on the main square is also solid.

You'll save money staying here. Prices beat Old Town easily. Theatrino Hotel is a great choice. It's a 4-star spot in an old Art Nouveau theater. Austrian architect Harald Schreiber did the design. They serve breakfast in the old hall. There's a sauna too. Budget travelers should book Hostel One Prague. It's social and the staff is helpful. If you want a pod, try Capsule Hostel Žižkov Tower. It's modern and has air conditioning. Hotel Columbo is a clean 3-star option. Zizkov Tower Suites works well for longer trips. You'll sleep better here. No crowds.

The hills are steep but transport is fast. Use Metro Line A. Get off at Jiřího z Poděbrad. You're in Old Town in five minutes. It's only three stops. Trams are better for the hills. Catch the 9, 11, 13, or 15. Lines 11 and 13 run down Vinohradská. They take you straight to the Museum. Trams 9 and 15 go through the heart of Žižkov. Use them for the train station or the National Theatre. Walk through the Karlín-Žižkov tunnel. It's 300 meters long and goes under Vítkov Hill. You'll reach Karlín in minutes. There's also a paved path for bikes. It follows the old railway from the train station to Krejcárek Park.

Don't look for big malls here. Go to the Na Jiraku market. It's at Jiřího z Poděbrad Square. It happens on Wednesday, Friday, or Saturday. Locals buy fresh produce and cheese here. Get a pastry for lunch. Sit on a bench near the church. The side streets have small shops. You'll find vintage clothes and wine shops. Artists like it here. Look for galleries on the ground floors. Buy groceries at the local bakeries. Atrium Flora is the big mall on the border. It has a cinema and a supermarket. But the small shops have more character.

It's a safe place. Don't worry about the peeling paint. It looks gritty but violent crime is rare. Some pubs get smoky late at night. Use common sense. You'll be fine walking home. Bring good shoes. You'll be climbing hills on uneven stones. Your feet will feel it. Bring cash. You need it for the TV Tower if you buy tickets there. There's no ATM at the tower. Get some koruna before you go. Most pubs still prefer cash too.